In a sunny courtyard of the temple complex of Gandan Khiid, moks are congregating. The temples are closed to visitors, as large groups of monks, young and old converge in the couryard. Some are weaing ceremonial hats, and carrying strange devices. The scent of incense is bourne from the smoking censers. A faint undercurrent of chanting is heard and the conch shell call punctuyates the surrounding murmur. We don't actually knw what is happening, but it is pleasing to sit and take in the experience.